Living with Real Wood

Wood, being a product of nature, is the most unpredictable, nonstandardized material used by the furniture industry today. Wood is ever alive, and as a result, the hazards of swelling, shrinking, warping, splitting, and changing colors are ever present.

Since trees are never identical in grain or texture, “Nature’s Fingerprint” is never the same in two pieces of wood. Differences in color and grain are natural characteristics creating the beauty and interest found in all fine wood. Therefore, no two pieces of wood furniture are identical....nor would you want them to be.

It is the difference in the beauty of natural wood grain and the subtle variations of coloring that give real wood its warmth and richness. Mineral streaks, color differences, pin knots, small pitted or pith areas, and other marks of nature, are a normal variation in many woods - particularly cherry, maple, pine, walnut, and pecan. Mineral streaks have a tendency to show up on these lighter pieces. During staining, it is the natural substances in the wood which cause these effects. Consequently, it is impossible to guarantee an exact match in finish between two pieces of furniture, even though the identical finishing processes are applied. Woods such as oak, ash, and hickory often have small worm-holes and weather cracks that are the marks of authenticity. Only artificial wood will be perfectly uniform in color, texture and grain… as a result, monotonous and lifeless. Enjoy genuine wood furniture as nature’s gift of individuality.

About Your Wood Furniture

Distressed Finishes

This is a technique used to antique or give an “aged” appearance to furniture. Techniques used include physically marking the surface with a blunt instrument, marking with crayon, and spattering with stain. A “dusty” appearance is achieved by rubbing pumice or a similar medium into the wood pores. This pumice can often “hang up” in carvings and details, adding depth and interest. These finishes lend authenticity and beauty to fine wood furniture and are an indication of careful craftsmanship.

Solid Woods

Solid wood furniture is more susceptible to changes in humidity than veneered products. When in a dry environment, wood contracts; while in a moist one, wood expands, causing inconsistencies in alignment of doors, drawers, and table tops. This is normal and should not be cause for alarm. Small cracks that may appear in dry humidity, will close and go unnoticed in normal and high humidity. Therefore, it is important to maintain a consistent humidity level above 30% within your home.

Veneer Construction

Furniture with veneer construction has greater dimensional stability, overcoming wood’s natural tendency to move. It also allows the furniture designer to create surface drama and interest. Veneers are not artificial - they are thin layers of real wood. The adhesives used today to apply veneers rarely fail, so peeling isn’t an issue. Some highly figured veneers may exhibit raised grain in an atmosphere with very low humidity. This is not considered a defect.

Leveling and Settling

Gabberts’ delivery team will level each piece of furniture upon delivery . Over time, a piece of case furniture may settle and the doors may become uneven. Almost all merchandise today has adjustable glides which can accommodate any leveling problem you may encounter. Should your furniture not function properly, please test the level of your floors by rotating chairs or re-positioning other items. A shim or two will correct cabinet pieces when floors are not level. Large cabinets/entertainment centers may require releveling after settling or loading of product.

Table Leaves

Most table leaves are made independently of the table…sometimes in a different plant but then custom fit to the table. They will not usually match perfectly in grain or in color. However, you can be sure they were tested and pre-fitted before leaving the factory and Gabberts Distribution Center. When your new table is delivered to your home, we recommend that you put the leaves in the table to make certain they fit properly before storing them. To prevent warping of leaves, which is accelerated by standing them on end, we suggest they be stored flat. Markings on the underside of your table will guide you in the proper placement of your leaves. Because woods may vary with temperature and humidity changes, we also recommend the leaves be stored under the same approximate conditions as that of your table.

Door Warping

This problem occurs mainly in pieces with large doors (armoire, china cabinets, etc.). It is important to properly close the doors and not allow them to hang open. Long periods of varying humidity can also produce warping. High humidity causes expansion, low humidity causes contraction. We recommend you keep a constant level of humidity in your home to assure a long life of your furniture.

Door Hinges

Door hinges in most furnishings are of a small and delicate nature. Care must be taken with opening and closing. Improper stress causes bending and doors will not shut properly.

Drawers

After a period of time, drawers may work harder than usual. If this happens, lubrication may be needed. Metal drawer glides require a light application of silicone or WD40. On wooden drawer glides, rubbing a bar of soap or candle wax along the track may aid in easier operation. Remember, drawers must be pulled straight out. Do not bend up or down as this causes the track to become loose or bent.

Cleaning Fine Wood Furniture

Dusting

Lightly dust furniture surface as needed with a clean, lint-free absorbent cloth. When dusting, work cloth with the wood’s grain as evenly as possible. Small dust particles can scratch wood if not worked with the grain. Remember to lift, not slide, lamps and other accessories from the surface of your furniture. Apply felt pads to as many items as possible prior to putting on any furniture. Items such as old clean diapers, terry towels, cotton knitwear, or flannel clothes are good choices. Never use heavily oiled dust clothes on waxed surfaces. The oil in the cloth can soften the wax, then the surface becomes cloudy. Cheese cloth is also a fine item to use after it has been washed at least once.

Cleaning

Dust lightly, once again with the grain of the wood. Wipe surfaces with a soft, damp cloth. This removes dust particles which, tiny as they are, have sharp edges and can scratch under pressure. If necessary, use a mild soap solution and rinse with clear water and dry with a soft rag. (Be careful to wring out all of the water from the cloth, leaving it only damp.) Never leave a damp cloth on any wood furniture.

Polishing

We urge you to select one which does NOT have silicone. A good wax or cream is far and above the better product to protect your furniture. Care of this nature should be done periodically. Gabberts recommends and sells an assortment of polishes and cleaners for all lacquer finishes. Remember, before polishing, clean your surface with a warm, damp, cloth and mild detergent. Wipe the surface with another soft cloth. Always follow the directions carefully on the product you choose to use for best results.

A common myth is that furniture polishes coat wood and prevent it from “feeding” or “breathing”. The fact is that wood used for most furniture has been so thoroughly dried and well sealed with layers of lacquer or protective oils, that it is not only unnecessary that a polish “feed”, it is impossible.

Oil/Wax Build-Up

How to clean off oil or wax build-up? This cleaning can be done in a variety of polishes which contain emollients. Gabberts sells an assortment of cleaners. Remember to read the directions carefully!

Touch-Up

Small mars and scratches may be touched up with a furniture touch-up marker available at Gabberts and many hardware stores. Small fill sticks are available in many hardware stores and paint shops as well, these can help to conceal small dents and dings.

Wood's Enemies

Sunlight

Overexposure to sunlight can adversely affect fine wood finishes. Checking, crazing and cracking of the finish are some of the most common problems. Bleaching of the wood is also possible with continued exposure. Avoid these problems by placing furniture out of direct sunlight, or use sunscreening drapes during intense sunlight hours. Be sure to rotate the furniture in place and in the room arrangement. To prevent “spot” bleaching, avoid placing accessories in one spot for an extended period of time.

Heat

Extremes in temperature are another common enemy. Heat causes the unfinished area of wood furniture to expand and contract. This subtle, yet constant expansion and contraction of the underside of furniture can cause checking, crazing, and cracking of the finish. Heat is also associated with the buckling and delamination of veneers.

Control measures can be taken by arranging furniture away from radiators, registers, and air conditioners and by rotating furniture in place and in room arrangements.

Humidity

Damage from excessive or extremely low humidity can result in a warping of wood, raising of the grain, and softening of the glue used in applying veneers.

Preventative measures can be taken. In extremely humid climates, room or central dehumidifiers are helpful. Conversely, since central heating units in cold climate homes have a tendency to lower home humidity drastically, humidifiers attached to the furnace or a simple pan of water placed next to a radiator can be used. Try to maintain an ideal humidity level of above 30%.

Plastic Products

A chemical reaction may occur with some finishes when the finish comes in contact with plastic products. The plastic will melt some finishes. Items to be aware of are the plastic feet of a clock radio, the feet and cord of a telephone, or any plastic doily or table cloth.

It is suggested to check the bottoms of anything that is to be placed on your wood furniture. If you discover that there is plastic that may come in contact with the finish, it is advised that a cloth, or felt pads be used between the plastic and wood surface.

Special Care for Oil Finishes

Many woods, especially walnut, rosewood and teak, are finished with linseed oil to ensure a natural character. To maintain this natural beauty, we suggest several additional applications for the first two years, remembering to test it in an area that won’t show as the oil can darken the wood colors. We also recommend that you NEVER use wax for oil finishes.

Special Care for Untreated Butcher Block

Clean with mild soap and water whenever soiled. Generously apply mineral oil to the top and sides with a soft cloth. Apply oil onto wood with a dry, soft cloth and remove all excess oil. Wipe surface absolutely dry. If oil is left on too long, finish may get tacky and difficult to rub. NEVER use wax on butcherblock.

Over an extended period of use, you will notice a gradual deepening of color. This is a normal aging process and gives the wood a warm, natural beauty. If a scratch mars the table, it can be removed with fine steel wool, rubbing with the grain lightly and then treating the surface with mineral oil to blend in the coloring and protect the area. Butcher block tables featuring fully-filled lacquer or varnish finishes may be cared for with a cream polish or paste wax.

Special Care Hints for Dining Room Furniture

  • Never allow spilled food or beverages to dry on the surface.
  • Avoid placing hot food dishes and objects with rubber feet directly on your furniture. Use a hot pad or felt to protect the surface.
  • When opening a dining table, two people opening and gently lifting will reduce table leg stress.
  • Use coasters or pads under beverage glasses and other containers for liquids. Do not use any vinyl plastic pads or mats for extended periods as it can result in staining and/or softening of wood finishes.
  • We suggest using table pads to protect dining table tops - available at Gabberts.
  • Do protect the finish with a pad when using as a writing surface.