Special Materials Care

Marble

Being more porous than most people realize, this rare and beautiful material requires a reasonable amount of care to protect it against staining, discoloration and marring. Maintain this surface by washing it frequently and immediately rinsing off any spilled materials. A mild alkaline detergent and warm water on a soft cloth is adequate. The use of coasters under glasses when placing them on marble tops is recommended. Marble which has been stained or damaged, applying a small amount of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia or amyl acetate and acetone to the affected area should produce good results. Several brands of marble silicone base polish or light paste wax are available to help protect the surface and resist staining. Buff with lamb’s wool. Never use abrasive cleaners of any kind.

Glass Tops

Our suppliers use the finest materials and fabrication equipment available. Every piece of glass will have some type of minor blemish or imperfection. The glass industry has a uniform set of quality standards that allow for the following:

  • Small bubbles (smaller than ¼” in diameter)
  • Minor waviness
  • Hairline scratches, which are inherent in the manufacturing of glass (must be able to be viewed from a distance of 3 feet when the glass is in a vertical position to be deemed unacceptable)

Care must be exercised in cleaning and maintaining glass tops to ensure years of lasting beauty. Use a quality glass cleaner or polish and a soft cloth to remove fingerprints and dust. Dishwashing liquid in lukewarm water is recommended to remove grease.

Brass/Chrome

Every brass and chrome piece has small scratches in the finish. Perfection is next to impossible. These pieces should be treated exactly like fine furniture and dusted with a soft, clean cloth. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with “Glow Polish” or any similar polish. If brass has a protective finish, it is important that this coating is not chipped or scratched as this will cause brass to oxidize unevenly. Do not use abrasive cleaners. Like all natural materials, brass mellows and ages, so an increased patina, with some darkening of color or tiny speckles should be anticipated. This process is called antiquing.

A quality furniture polish may also be used occasionally. WARNING: Use of any abrasive cleaners or scouring pads will result in permanent damage.

Lacquer finishes

Today, finish applications of fine furniture may require 20-30 different steps. Consequently, frequent polishing is not necessary. (Avoid using silicone based wax.) Dust frequently with the grain of the wood, using a soft lint-free cloth. For more thorough cleaning, use a non-abrasive household glass cleaner (preferably one that doesn’t contain ammonia) with a soft, clean cloth. Buff until thoroughly dry with a soft, clean and dry cloth.

Even though finishes are fade resistant, the wood may change in color if exposed to strong sunlight for long periods of time. A slight change in coloring of many natural wood products may occur and add to the beauty of the piece. Damage to the “lacquer” finish on a piece of furniture is easily repaired by a skilled repair technician.

Lucite/Acrylic Finishes

Dust gently with damp cloth or chamois to avoid scratches. Clean with a mild detergent solution or with an ammonia and water solution. Wipe with clean, soft cloth and blot with cloth or chamois.

Formica/Laminates/Corian

Clean with general household spray cleaner. Wipe in a circular motion to clean soiled areas.

Antiqued (Painted) Furniture

Wipe with damp cloth to clean. Wax to protect using a creamy liquid wax (or paste wax on darker finishes).

Antiqued (Genuine) Furniture

Since paste wax has typically been used on antique furniture over the years, continue to use it to preserve the mellow look and patina. Apply paste wax in thin, even coats, rubbing with the grain of the wood. Buff to bring out the highlights.

Wicker/Rattan

Remember to always lift, never drag, your furniture. This is especially important with wicker and rattan to avoid extra stress or chipping. Wicker pieces need to be shielded from direct sunlight, and dry, hot air coming from heat registers; both cause the fiber strips to crack and break. Dust each piece thoroughly, and wipe your wicker furniture occasionally with a damp cloth to help prevent them from drying out. Gabberts recommends linseed oil, lemon oil or cedar oil applied on occasion. Apply with a clean cloth and be sure to oil underside as well. Never pull a snag or fray; use a fingernail clipper or wire cutter. If wicker or rattan becomes chipped, spray lightly with a clear lacquer to restore color.

Cane Seats and Backs

Cane may vary in color tone from one piece to the next. It has a tendency to be rough feeling, especially evident on the backs of chairs. This quality will usually disappear with normal dusting. Dryness weakens cane seats. Preserve natural resiliency by damp dusting.

Rush Seats

Similar to cane, rush seats and backs vary in color tone. Normally, there are a few small gaps on the surface of each piece. NOTE: Everyday use may produce some degree of stretching.

Leather

With bonded leather and vinyl tops, use the same general care recommendations as those for wood and painted surfaces. When cleaning, be careful moisture is not left in the crevices. CAUTION: Always provide adequate protection before writing or placing heavy objects on surfaces of this type, as they dent easily.

Protective Finishes

Many pieces of furniture today are finished and protected with synthetic varnishes marketed under various brand names. They offer extreme resistance to marring, abrasion, water, alcohol, detergents, nail polish remover, ordinary household liquids and ink. These finishes may be cleaned with a soft, damp cloth and mild soap solution. Remember to thoroughly dry the surface. A good grade of paste wax will add protection.